| I don't think your're arguing my point either. the OP made a bad decision and the consensus is that he's damaged his engine. I do however understand his logic in that you could go distance(X) till the engine got hot, or even operating temp for that matter. hell just pull over every (X) and wait time(X). Might be an all day trek to get to your final destination, but you COULD do it. I don't think that an AM/WT guage (or the factory guage for that matter) would simply not opperate due to no circulation. While I totaly agree that your not going to get an accurate reading, you'll get something, even if you're only observing the rate of increase. Personaly I think you're more likely to get hotter readings at the sensor site, as you're more likely to get cavitation in the upper part of the system should you reach a boiling point. Its important to point out that I'm not saying it would be hotter than the actual heat source, but I have serious doubts that there would be a huge difference between the sensor and cylindar #6. Of course if there was zero coolant, all bets are off. To be clear, I"M NOT ENDORSING driving the car like this, but I think you'd agree an AM guage would be hands down more ideal in this situation and would have afforded the OP an oppertunity to shut it down when the guage got to ~150. This is my point. While I'm very happy with my build, it is my own personal experience with the shitty factory guage that started my financial Z avalanche five years ago. I try to exploit every oportunity to spread the message of the infinite value of an aftermarket WT Guage.
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